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Ancient traces of Cu Da Village

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Text & photos by Tuyen Parafu
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Cu Da Village, with a history spanning over 400 years, has withstood the test of time while preserving the quintessential charm of a northern Vietnamese village, characterized by its traditional tiled houses. What sets Cu Da apart is the harmonious blend of ancient Vietnamese architecture and French-style constructions, creating a distinctive yet familiar ambiance along the banks of the Nhue River.

In the 1990s, Cu Da boasted 255 ancient houses, including 15 to 20 with distinctive French-style architecture. Over time, historical events and urban development have reshaped the village, leaving only about 55 of these houses standing today. Remarkably, Cu Da holds the distinction of being the first village in the capital where houses were numbered—an uncommon practice, as many villages still lack numbered addresses even in modern times.

Cu Da Pagoda, a cherished landmark in the village, was officially recognized as a national monument in 2000. Over the centuries, it has undergone multiple restorations, with the earliest recorded renovation dating back to 1695 during the reign of the Later Le Dynasty.

Cu Da ancient village is located in Cu Khe Commune, Thanh Oai District, Hanoi, along the Nhue River. It has long been associated with the craft of making vermicelli and soy sauce.
According to historical documents and local family genealogies, the village was formed more than 400 years ago, by the royal family members of the Trinh Lord family
The village has developed continuously, especially in the early 20th century when some famous businesspeople such as Doanh, Cu Chan, Cu Phat appeared
They brought back many works with French architectural influences on their hometown, contributing to creating a new look for the village where tradition and modernity intersect

Cu Da used to have more than 250 ancient houses, of which about 15-20 were French-style while the rest were in traditional Vietnamese style
To date, there are about 55 houses left. Most of them were built in the style of tiled houses, with brick-paved yards, covered gates, and the main house facing the outbuildings through a small yard, creating a familiar layout of the Northern Delta region.
Cu Da Pagoda – a national monument since 2000 – is an outstanding spiritual work, built in 1695, during the reign of Later Le Dynasty, and has undergone many restorations
The village is planned in clear order. The main road runs parallel to the riverbank, with a row of trees and a water wharf on one side and a row of houses on the other side.
From the main axis, many small, slanted brick alleys radiate out leading to the hamlets
The alleys often have gates at both ends, with rows of houses in a straight line on both sides, facing each other. The village structure is in the shape of a “fish bone,” creating a closed network of connections.
Some houses are located deep in narrow alleys, with old brick walls and small paths on both sides, evoking a slow and enduring pace of life over time
All create a unique space, where history, culture and daily life blend together

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