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Sunday, October 19, 2025

A traditional dish rooted in rural life

By Huynh Bien

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Lẩu mắm, or fermented fish hotpot, is a signature dish of Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, loved for its rich, savory flavor. In restaurants, it is often prepared with seafood or roasted pork, but the traditional rural version uses freshwater fish caught in local rivers.

Depending on the season, locals use various fish such as cá kèo (Elongate mudskipper), cá dứa (Pangasius kunyit), or cá úc (Threadfin sea catfish), all known for their soft and fatty meat. Among them, cá bông lau (Pangasius krempfi) is prized for its delicate texture, mild taste, and minimal bones.

After Tet, fishermen along the Hau River, head out in small boats to catch this seasonal delicacy. Each fish typically weighs three to five kilograms, sometimes up to seven. Prices range from VND200,000 to VND250,000 per kilogram, and a few good catches can bring in over a million dong a day.

According to local fishermen, catches of Pangasius krempfi have decreased in recent years. The fish is now mostly available during its harvest season, from September to April on the lunar calendar.

The fish’s pinkish-white skin feels smooth, almost as if dusted with powder. It is also notable for lacking the fishy odor that is common among freshwater species. The fish has only one central bone and a fatty, flavorful stomach, which makes it easy to prepare and eat.

Locals prefer to enjoy cá bông lau fresh rather than dried or fermented. A popular dish is lẩu mắm cá bông lau, or fermented fish hotpot with Pangasius krempfi, in which the fish is cooked in a broth made from fermented fish sauce, along with pork belly, shrimp, and vegetables such as bitter melon, eggplant, okra, and straw mushrooms. It is served with a variety of fresh vegetables and rice noodles. The dish offers the rich, savory flavor that characterizes the cuisine of the Mekong Delta.

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