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Monday, January 26, 2026

Cao Lau: The culinary mystery of Hoi An

By Nhan Tam

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Among the countless Central Vietnamese delicacies, Cao Lau is a dish that can only be truly mastered in one place: the ancient town of Hoi An.

Originating in the 17th century during Hoi An’s golden age as a trading port, Cao Lau is a captivating blend of cultural influences. Its essence lies in the noodles, which are made through a careful process. The rice must be soaked in ash water from Cham Island trees, giving the noodles their distinctive golden color and firm texture. Importantly, the dough is kneaded with water from the ancient Ba Le Well (located in downtown Hoi An), whose unique mineral content provides a chewiness that can’t be recreated elsewhere.

Unlike pho or Mi Quang (other local specialties made from noodles), Cao Lau is served with very little broth—just a few spoonfuls of a rich, savory sauce. It is topped with tender slices of five-spice roasted pork, crispy deep-fried noodle squares, and a handful of fresh local herbs. Every bite offers a symphony of textures: the crunch of the croutons, the resilience of the noodles, and the aromatic sweetness of the pork. For centuries, Cao Lau was considered a “delicacy of the elite,” and today, it remains a proud testament to Hoi An’s enduring culinary heritage.

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